A futuristic beauty pageant was the theme for the WallacePlayford show at |FAT| 2012 show with models entering via a spinning metal cage (see below) powered by two modish-spacemen. The looks were tongue-in-cheek retro mod with the familiar vintage bathing capes and lucite bangles but also more avant garde touches like the embellished pads worn on the foot, ankle, calf and knee and the matching embellished busts on certain garments.
Effortless cool in this all black SS12 collection from B.E. The garments were constructed of loose, flowing and light weight fabric. This sometimes had a peek-a-boo effect especially with the dresses, however the wearer could resolve this by layering over a tank top or blouse. I liked the elegant black pleated mid and maxi skirts and thought them usual items for SS but lovely and pragmatic ones nonetheless.
One of the hallmarks of |FAT| is the performance art between runway shows and the runway shows themselves that very often blur the distinction between the two. It is a refreshing break from the conservatism of many of the shows at World Mastercard Toronto Fashion Week . The Haphazard show at |FAT| 2012 was the epitome of this with ballet, a hair sculpture, a giant wind-up doll and a final walk that consisted of a living graffiti wall:
An invigorating collection of prints that will be sure to energize you with their colour and imagery through the long and unpredicatable Canandian winter. Lots of African motifs, fire, atom bomb clouds and in a gesture of wishful thinking perhaps, leopards, toucans, orchids and butterflies. There is something for everyone here.
This was a stand out show for me. At the risk of sounding deranged I even found myself moved by it. Like the shows namesake, "Ethereal" the models emerged like dream figures in a strange landscape. Golnaz Ashtiani cites Moscow photographer Oleg Dou as an influence for this collection. The screen at the top of the runway projected a mirror image pattern of what looked like an atomic cloud twisting and turning like a kaleidoscope to create an infinite variety of new patterns from this one picture of clouds.
The inspiration for David Dixon’s AW12 collection was Alfred Hitchcock's film The Birds. The designer was inspired by his own fear of birds (species specific) and a love of actress Tipi Hedren to use this classic film as the theme. Daywear showed first then eveningwear. The later is where David Dixon really excels.
The Saniya Khan AW12 collection was characterized by sumptuous velvets in black, smoke, plum and burgundy, Embroidery in gold and silver thread, intricate beadwork and occasional fur accents. Enormous faux rubies gave the velvet pieces a mystical quality. There was a definite eastern influence but not specific to one country.
I’ve never been able to figure out the obsession pop stars (Yes Kanye that includes you too, as the music you make is in fact a form of Pop –you say Hip Hop I say Hip Pop) have with starting their own fashion lines. It’s not for the money clearly as the people included in this top five make money literally doing nothing (sometimes even when they claim to be performing).
Rogue schoolgirl? These are the images that came to mind last night at Amanda Lew Kee’s A/W 12 presentation. Black on black was very daring and set the stage for an emphasis on contrast. Shiny on matte, Sheer with solid, smooth with textured etc. Black net veils balanced over top knots and black dragon-lady talons injected a does of film-noir meets fantasy epic.